Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Growing Garlic

While we all know that garlic has many health benefits such as being a natural antibiotic, you may not know that they can also be healthy for your garden as well. As a companion plant, when they are planted near roses and raspberries, garlic will improve the growth and health of your plants. It has the added benefit of deterring Japanese beetles and aphids. Garlic is easy to grow and each planted clove will produce a full head of Garlic with between 8 to 20 cloves per head. To get started in with planting your garlic, first purchase your garlic of choice. Since the garlic from grocery stores has anti-sprouting chemicals added to it, be sure and buy your garlic from a reputable source rather than a grocery store. One variety that you may enjoy that is popular here in the Mid-South is the mild flavored 'Elephant' garlic which has large clusters.

Planting Garlic

One half pound of garlic seed is a good start and will produce about 15 plants. Garlic is divided into hardnecks (Allium sativum var. ohioscorodon) and softnecks (Allium sativum var. sativum). Check online catalogs or your local co-op for the variety that will suit your needs best.

Next, decide where you will plant your garlic. A raised bed is suggested if you do not have good soil or if you live in a wet climate. Good soil means loamy soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Composted manure for essential nutrients incorporated into soil a few weeks before planting is helpful. If you are planting your garlic directly into your soil, plant in wide-rows 10 to 12 inches wide. Timing is important when planting garlic. Bigger bulbs will be produced if you plant in the fall and let it grow and mature until the following summer. If you find that it's springtime already and you haven't planted yours yet, go ahead and plant if you like, just realize you will get smaller bulbs. Since garlic bulbs like cool weather, the earlier you can plant it the better it will grow and the bigger the bulbs will be.

Garlic is not susceptible to disease, but as with any plant, having good air circulation is the key to a healthy plant. If your garlic develops thrips, apply insecticidal soap. In cold climates, add more mulch a month after planting to prevent extreme temperature fluctuations. When growth appears in late winter, pull back the mulch and begin monthly applications of an organic fertilizer such as blood meal or fish emulsion. Stop fertilizing in mid to late spring (depending on what type of garlic you have). Mulch again as summer approaches.

Harvesting Garlic

It takes about 100 days for bulbs planted in the spring to mature. Harvest between late may in warm climates and mid-August in cooler areas. Stop watering two weeks before harvest. One tip that garlic is ready to harvest is when the leaves on the lower half of the plant turn brown. To harvest, dig the bulbs up rather than pulling them up, Being careful not to damage the outer skins.

Let them cure in a dry, shady, well ventilated location for three days. Don't wash them yet. If you want to braid your garlic for a decorative touch, now is the time to braid the foliage of softnecks. Cure bulbs for 2 to 3 more weeks until foliage is completely dry. Once foliage is dry, clean the bulbs by wiping or peeling away the outer husk. Trim tops to 1 inch and roots to 1/2 inch.

Storing Garlic Bulbs

To store your garlic bulbs, place them in mesh bags or braided strings in a dark, cool place. Garlic will keep up to three months if stored at between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and room temperature. Humidity level of 65 to 70 percent is best.
Don not refrigerate.

Troubleshooting

Common causes of small or no bulbing include high temperatures, excessive watering, wrong cultivator for your climate, and weed competition. Your local extension service can advise you as to what varieties grow well in your area.

Both you and your garden can benefit from growing garlic. Checking online catalog sources, your local extension service, or with your local garden center will give you many varieties that are fun to try and that will grow well in your area.

By: julia stewart

For more expert gardening advice from Julia Stewart, a Master Gardener, and her husband who had been a professional landscape contractor for over 30 years, visit their web site at www.flowers-plants-gardening-advice.com/

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Gardening With The No-dig System

The idea of do-dig gardening was developed by an Australian named Esther Deans. It was originally both developed both as a labor saving idea, and a method to rejuvenate badly depleted soil in a vegetable garden.

The process involves starting with layers of newspaper, and by adding lucerne hay, straw and compost in succeeding layers, you can create a growing medium without resorting to heavy digging, and one that is rich in nutrients and which will simplify weeding and encourage your much desired plants to grow. The layers compost together, and greatly encourage earthworms. The gardens are maintained by adding manure, compost, etc., and should not be dug up, as this will undo the good work. I have used this approach to creating vegetable gardens, and it certainly does work.

The principle of not digging has sound foundations. Excessive cultivation of the soil, especially when very wet or very dry, will damage the structure of the soil, and lead to compaction. Such excessive cultivation can also discourage the earthworms, and they are the best free labor a gardener has.

Some followers of permaculture and organic gardening have translated no-dig into never-dig, which I believe is sadly mistaken. If you start with a base soil that is badly compacted, then your no-dig garden will initially work well, but you may find your garden does not continue to perform well. The fertile layer you have built up will encourage the earthworms, but we do know that the worms need to shelter from excessively hot, dry, cold or wet conditions. They have been found to seek shelter from extreme conditions by burrowing more deeply into the soil, sometime many feet down. If they cannot shelter in this way, it is my contention that they will die out or move out.

My belief is that an initial cultivation of the soil before you apply the no-dig system will guarantee a better environment for the worms, and thus a better garden for growing your plants, over the longer term.

By all means give the no-dig approach a try – you will be pleased with the result.

By: Juliet Spalding

Want to find out about japanese lilac and pruning lilacs? Get tips from the Lilac Flower website.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Quick Gardening Improvement Ideas

A beautiful garden adds great value to the home and creates a restful place to recoup your energy, somewhere to entertain all those guests, or a wonderful place for the children to play safely. Most houses on a block of ground will have some kind of garden, but if yours is a bit bland, try out these budget-wise ideas to improve it.

1. Add a water feature. But be sure you really do want one - in that particular spot. They can be hard to move once installed. A birdbath is an easier option.

2. A curved path will add elegance, even if it only leads to the clothesline. But yours could lead to a hidden seat or statue - or that water feature.

3. Paths can be made from brick, cement, flagged rock, stepping-stones, gravel or woodchips. The last two options are the cheapest.

4. If you don't use your lawn much and are tired of mowing it, then replace with gravel or cement, add a few pot plants for coolness or statues and a seat.

5. Discard that old, unused shed or half dead shrub that you hate.

6. Do your own makeover; tidy up the back yard and get the whole family to suggest ideas of what they would like.

7. Hanging baskets, a vine-covered pergola, or a row of pot plants may be all you need to jazz up your garden.

Once you get your garden into shape, you'll be amazed at the difference.

By: Mel C

Homes built on land in Victoria outside the CBD generally offers more space for landscaping. If you're thinking of a buying a house with a garden, it's worth investigating land for sale in outer city suburbs.

Wednesday, February 04, 2009

Deadly Plants In Your House & Garden

If you have pets or small children and like to keep a garden or indoor houseplants, it's important that you know which varieties of plants are dangerous to have around. While there are some well known toxic plants such as Poinsettias and Deadly Nightshade, there are also many common household plants that are potentially deadly to both pets and humans.

Daffodils, Hyacinths, and Narcissus plants can all cause serious stomach upset, high blood pressure, tremors, and irregular heartbeats if the bulbs are eaten. In some cases, digestion of the bulbs can even be fatal.


Ingesting Lily of the Valley shrubs, Rhododendrons, and Azaleas will cause nausea and vomiting, and can go on to trigger cardiovascular collapse, coma, and death.

Oleander is well known for its toxic properties, as is Foxglove. These plants cause gastrointestinal upset, affect the heart, and are deadly. Just handling these plants can cause dermatitis in sensitive individuals, so it's best to avoid direct contact with these plants. Foxglove is especially dangerous because their bell shaped buds are very attractive to children. Ingesting just a small amount can be deadly, and prior to death, the toxin can cause severe abdominal pain, hallucinations, and tremors.

Castor Bean seeds and the Rosary Pea are extremely dangerous to have around the house if you have pets and small children. It takes just a few seeds to cause death in both animals and humans. The berries on the ornamental Daphne plant are also very toxic—especially to children—and touching the twigs can cause skin irritation.

Even the childhood favorite, Buttercup flowers, can cause gastrointestinal disorders if eaten and can trigger blistering if the sap makes contact with the skin.

The Yew tree has poisonous berries and foliage, which are very attractive to pets and livestock. Symptoms of Yew poisoning may include convulsions and difficulty breathing, but death has been known to occur without warning.

If you have some of these plants in your house, and you have pets or small children, try to keep the most dangerous plants out of reach by setting them on high shelves or on plant hangers. As soon as your children are old enough to understand, teach them to always check with you before anything from a plant or tree.

To keep your cats from devouring toxic greenery, keep edible grass in the house so that they have something safe to nibble on. Then, either keep hazardous plants out of reach, or make them less enticing. You can try rubbing something bad tasting on their leaves, or spray your pet with water every time they go near the offending flower. They'll soon associate the plant with unpleasant consequences, and leave it alone.

Outdoors, dangerous plants and shrubs should be fenced off to protect your pets from accessing them.

If your pet exhibits some of the following symptoms, then you should suspect poisoning: vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and shivering. If you think your pet has come in contact with something toxic, call your veterinarian right away. The Animal Poison Control Center is also available for assistance for a fee over the phone. Their 24-hour emergency line can be reached at 1-888-426-4435.

If your child has ingested something toxic, they will likely exhibit pain around their mouths, vomiting and stomach cramps, convulsions, and an irregular heartbeat. In the case of ingestion, you should immediately call Poison Control or call 911.

Plants are a lovely addition to any home or garden, but they can be deadly if precautions aren't taken. Do your research before purchasing a plant to make sure that it won't put your children or pets at risk. If you do have a plant or shrub that's toxic, do your best to teach your children and animals to stay well away from it.

By: Tim Ryan

Amerivest is a realty company based in southwest Florida, and specializes in Naples real estate. Search for Vineyards homes and view property listings in this highly coveted Naples community by visiting us at NaplesGuru.com.